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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.